Contents
List of Illustrations 000
Acknowledgments 000
Chronology 000
Introduction 000
First Part: Travels in Veracruz, Puebla, and Mexico
Chapter 1 000
Departure from Vienna--First Glimpse of the Sea--We Embark--The Steamship Tay-
-An Account Thereof--Departure from Europe--The Ocean--The Storm--Porto Santo-
-Madeira--Funchal--Tropical Vegetation--A Nunnery--The Fish and Fruit Market--
A Promenade--Travels in the West Indies--A Thunderstorm--Ocean Services
Chapter 2 000
Barbados--Location--Surface Area--Population--Bridgetown--A House--Population-
-Fruit Market--The Grenadines--Grenada--Location--Surface Area--Georgetown--
Swimming Ability of the Negro--Products--Vegetation--A Change of Steamships--
The Tweed--Jacmel--Haiti--Location and Extension--Culture--Population--
Government--Tremendous Heat--Rats--Sleepless Nights--Port Royal--Jamaica--The
Blue Mountains--Divisions--Kingston--Mosquitoes--Vultures--The Southern Cross-
-Cape San Antonio--Havana--Its Luxury--The Island of Cuba--Location--Surface
Area--Population--Plaza de Armas--House of Refreshment--Paseo Tacon--El Cerro-
-Buildings and Factories--Culture of the Land
Chapter 3 000
North Winds--The Campeche Coast--Sea Breezes--The Mainland Coast--Veracruz--
The Harbor--The Fortress--Location, Climate, and Population of the State--The
Hotel--An Evening Therein--Sand Dunes--Santa Fe--Tepache--The First Day's
Journey--Paso de Ovejas--Barrancas--Midway Point--Oak Forest--Arrival in
Mirador
Chapter 4 000
Mirador--Its Inhabitants--Other German Properties--View of Orizaba--The
Cordillera--Hut Frames--Soil and Climate--Winter Rain--Savannah--Vegetation of
the Barrancas--Tiger Grotto--Orange Groves--Zacuapan--Esperanza--Customs of
the People--Fandango--San Bartolo--Feast Day--Reflections over the Indian
Viewpoint--Their Physique
Chapter 5 000
Christmas Eve--Excursion to Huatusco--Market in Mirador--Items That Are
Brought There--Lassos--Tiger Hunting--An Indian--His Woman--The Governor--
Condition of Mexico in the Year 1845--Revolution--Hazards--The Evening of a
Party--Theft--Cebo--Cockfighting--The Fort--Ancient Indian Ruin--Great Thirst-
-Description of the Barranca--Garrapatas--Hieroglyphics--Life in the
Wilderness--Return and Departure from Mirador
Chapter 6 000
My House in Huatusco--Journey to Orizaba--Barranca de San Juan--San Juan
Coscomatepec--Earthquake--Santa Maria Alpatlahua--Journey in the Mountains--
Devastation of the Forests--Jacale--The Peak of Orizaba--A Dangerous Glimpse--
La Cuchilla--The West Side of the Cordillera--The High Plains--Tlachichuca--
Maguey and Pulque--Los Derrumbados--Tepetitlan--La Capilla--Canoitas--A
Mexican Hut--La Cumbre--Achilchotla--Barranca de Chichiquila--Huatusco
Chapter 7 000
My Life in Huatusco--A Small Adventure--A Phenomenon--My Economy--Hills--
Journey through Puerto Viejo--Waterfall--The Xamapa Barranca--Sinkholes of Rio
Xamapa--Concerning the Shape of the Mountain--Pueblo Viejo--Bite of a
Poisonous Serpent--Ancient Woods--A Winding Plant at the Water Spring--Three
Encinos--Chicuhuite--Mule Drivers--Mules, Their Burdens and Travels--Cordova--
Two Enormous Palms--Market--Return to Huatusco
Chapter 8 000
Political Condition of Mexico in Early 1846--My Illness--Rainy Season--Journey
to the Capital--Tomatlan--Barranca de Metlaque--Orizaba--The Factory of
Cololapan--Products of the Same--Ruses against Bandits--Their Cruelty--
Aculzingo--Puente Colorado--Canada de Ixtapan--The Altiplano--San Agustin del
Palmar--Bad Water--Chula--Barranca Honda--San Simon--Acatzingo--The Inn
Thereof--Bandit Raid--San Bartolo--Amozoc--Arrival in Puebla
Chapter 9 000
Puebla--Architecture of the City, Streets, and Houses--Guest House--Plaza
Mayor--The Cathedral--Another Church and Scientific Establishment--Cholula--
The Pyramid--Church of San Francisco--The Diligencia--Road from Puebla to
Mexico--Rio Frio--Venta de Cordova--View of the Valley of Mexico.
Chapter 10 000
Mexico City--Concerning the Wealth and Current Position of the Government--The
Plaza Mayor--The Cathedral and Other Buildings--The College of Mining, the
Botanical Gardens, and the Academy of Fine Arts--The University and Museum--
Plazuela of the Voladores--Paseo de la Viga--Canal of the Same Name--Santa
Anita--The Chinampas--The Alameda, Paseo Nuevo, Citadel, and Water Supply--
Theater--Guest Houses and Warehouses--Tacubaya--Chapultepec--Guadalupe--Penon
de los Banos--The Pyramids of Teotihuacan--A Few More Things Concerning My
Residence and the Political Conditions of Mexico
Chapter 11 000
Journey to Toluca--Road to Lerma--Guajimalpa--Cerro de las Cruces--Lerma--Road
to Toluca--The City of Toluca--Its Dilapidation--Stop Therein--Revolution--
Otomi--Market--Theater--Bullfights--Trip to the Volcano--Cocustepec--Ascent of
the Volcano--The Crater--Pool of the Same--Pico del Fraile--Cultivation of the
Fields--South Side of Toluca--Tenango--San Pedro--Tenancingo--Industry
Thereof--Barranca de Tequalaya
Chapter 12 000
Journey to the Mines of Zacualpan--The Plain--Spruce Forests--Dangers of the
Roads--Tisca--Road to Jaltepec--Vegetation--Hacienda Los Arcos--Procedures at
the Silver Mines--The Smelter--The Amalgamation Process--Excursion to
Zacualpan--Splendid View of That Place--The Mine "La Golondrina" at Tecicapan-
-Mining in Mexico--Return Trip to Toluca--Manialtenango--Mineral Springs at
Ixtapan
Chapter 13 000
Journey to the Capital City--The Political Conditions of Mexico in September
1846--Immense Progress of the North Americans--Departure of Santa Anna--Hatred
of Strangers--Departure for Toluca--Loss of My Things through Robbery--Return
Trip over Puebla, Perote, and Jalapa--The Altiplano--Ojo de Agua--Fata
Morgana--Perote--Las Vigas--El Mal Pais--The Eastern Slope--Jalapa--Beauty of
the Environs--El Plan del Rio--Puente Nacional--Excursion to Zacuapan,
Mirador, and Huatusco--Departure from These Places--Journey to Veracruz and
Alvarado--Of Its Fortification and Environs
Second Part: Travels in Yucatan, Tabasco, and Chiapas
Chapter 14 000
Sea Journey to Campeche--View of the City--Arrival on Land--Campeche--
Description of the City--Dress of the People--Environs--Quintas--Yucatan--
Industry and Products--Commerce--Indians--Climate--Political Conditions--Delay
in Campeche--Poverty of the Country--Wealth of the Sea--Civil War--The Padres
Camargo--My Sad Condition and Illness--Christmas.
Chapter 15 000
New Year 1847--New Year's Eve in My Room--Struggle with My Boa Constrictor--
Lerma--Journey to Champoton--Coastal Journey by Canoes--Sea Journey on the
Same--Unpropitious Weather--Champoton--The River--Concerning the Population of
the Country--Cuyos--Environs of Paraiso--Journey along the River--Xantel--A
Beverage Called Pozole--Beautiful Forests--Ulumal--An Evening with an Indian--
Return Trip to Campeche--End of the Civil War--Armed Uprising of the
Aboriginal Inhabitants--Carnival
Chapter 16 000
Shipwreck of the English Steamship Tweed--A Document Referring to this
Shipwreck--Description of the Same--Strange Delivery of a Letter--Another
Delay in Campeche--Map of Yucatan--Political Conditions--Holy Week
Chapter 17 000
Journey to Uxmal--Hampolol--Footwear, Springs, and Vegetation of the Same--
Tenabo--Casa Nacional--Tupiles--Quemasones--Hecelchakan--Pocboc--Dzitbalche--
Calkini--Becal--Uxmal--Description of the Ruins--House of the Magician--The
Nunnery--House of the Governor--House of the Turtles--The House of the Doves--
The House of the Old Woman--El Picote--Indian Dance--Dangerous Signs of an
Indian Rebellion--Departure from Uxmal--A Koche--Wilderness--Tremendous Heat--
A Forest Fire--Return Trip and Arrival in Campeche
Chapter 18 000
Pilgrimage to Sambula--News from the Battleground--Capture of Veracruz--Defeat
of the Mexican Army at Cerro Gordo--Taking of Perote and Puebla--Journey to
Merida--Halacho--The Capital--Description of the Same--Lives and Doings of the
Inhabitants--Industry and Commerce--Henequen, or Sisal Hemp--Newspapers--An
Inn--Fiesta of San Sebastian--Cleanliness of the Yucatecan Clothing--Sacrifice
of the Indian--Errors of the Same--Environs of Merida--The Cenote of Kopoma--
Concerning the Origins of the Cenote--Return Journey to Campeche
Chapter 19 000
Summer Morning in the Tropics--China--Hacienda Chivic--Vegetation--Dyewood
Forests--Of Its Costs in the Country--Life of the Woodcutter--Indian Dance--
Seiba the Cabecera--The Boundary of the Cultivated Estate--Indian Rebellion--
Proclamation of the Same--Unfortunate End for Mexico--Conquest of the Capital-
-Peace Negotiations--The Fiesta of San Roman--New Unrest in Yucatan--
Preparations for Departure--Departure from Campeche
Chapter 20 000
Journey to Tabasco--Capture of the City by the North Americans--Difficulties
in Reaching Tabasco--The Pongo San Luis--Sea Travel--Unusual Pilgrimage--
Chiltepec--Arrival and Reception There--Mosquitoes--On the Rio Seco--Flooding
of the Same--A Night in Espino--San Juan Bautista of Tabasco--Location,
Inhabitants, and Climate Thereof--Of the Friendly Reception There--Rebellion
of the Troops--Political Cycles
Chapter 21 000
Journey to Teapa--River Pongos--Alligators--Ways and Means of Killing Them--
The Teapa River--Cacao Plantations along the Shores--Outpost of the Same in
Tabasco--Sitios--La Sylva--Pueblo Nuevo--View of the Mountains--Jose Maria--
Eremita--Teapa--Location--Houses--Inhabitants--Commerce--Production of Hule--
Climate--The Tina Sickness--Vegetation--Original Forests--Natural Products--
Residence with Dr. Lefevre--The Mountains of Puyacatengo--Life and Doings in
Teapa--Christmas--Excursion to Cocona and Rosario
Chapter 22 000
New Year 1848--Emotional Life of the Traveler--Adventure in the Juiba Brook--
The Stalactite Cave "Cueva del Tigre" in Puyacatengo Mountain--Mountain
Formation--First Journey in the Territory of Chiapas--The Sitio "La
Esperanza"--Location and Vegetation--Sulphur Springs--Springs of Cooking Salt-
-Neglect of Spiritual Care--Church Consecration in Istapangahoya--The Madregal
and the Stalactite Cave of Tapijulapa--Return Trip over Trinidad and Rosario.
Chapter 23 000
The Sitio Azufre--Location Thereof--Description of the Sulphur Spring Thereof-
-Santa Rosalie--Lluvia--Rosario--Journey to Pichucalco--Location of the Place-
-Inhabitants and Their Activity--Dr. Louis Bouchot--Vegetation of Chiapas--
Festival in the Last Part of Carnival--Improvised Theater--Summoning of a
Tragedy--The Game of Chance Called Monte--A Minor Uprising--Return to Teapa--
Sad News of the Caste War in Yucatan
Chapter 24 000
Departure from Teapa--San Jose--Second Stay in San Juan Bautista of Tabasco--
River Journey on the Grijalva or Tabasco--Chilapa--The Bank of the River--
Guadalupe de la Frontera--A Stop There--The North American Warship Aetna--
Departure with the Schooner Arietes to Havana--Departure from the Dry Land of
Tropical America--Difficult and Protracted Ocean Voyage--Storms,
Thundershowers, St. Elmo's Fire--Ship's Log until Arrival in Havana
Chapter 25 000
Second Stop in Havana--The Plaza de Armas--The Tacon Theater--The Liceo de
Havana--The Alameda de Paula--Regla--Marianao--Tobacco Factory--The German
Support Society--Natural History Collections--Departure for Philadelphia--
Journey to the United States of North America--Arrival in Europe
Notes 000
Index 000
